The name diamond is a corruption of the Greek word adamas which means invincible. It was given in reference to diamond’s great hardness.
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4 C’s Of Diamond
DIAMOND CUT
Diamond Cut Quality
When jewelers judge the quality of a diamond cut, or “make”, they often rate “Cut” as the most important of the “4 Cs.” The way a diamond is cut is primarily dependent upon the original shape of the rough stone, location of the inclusions and flaws to be eliminated, the preservation of the weight, and the popularity of certain shapes. Don’t confuse a diamond’s “cut” with it’s “shape”. Shape refers only to the outward appearance of the diamond , and not how it is faceted.
The Importance of Cut Quality
When a diamond has a high quality cut (ideal cut), incident light will enter the stone through the table and crown, traveling toward the pavilion where it reflects from one side to the other before bouncing back out of the diamond’s table toward the observer’s eye . This phenomenon is referred to as “light return” which affects a diamond’s brightness, brilliance, and dispersion. Any light-leakage caused by poor symmetry and/or cut proportions (off-make) will adversely affect the quality of light return.
The “Shallow Cut” and “Deep Cut” examples in show how light that enters through the table of a Modern Round Brilliant diamond reaches the pavilion facets and then leaks out from the sides or bottom of the diamond rather than reflecting back to the eye through the table. Less light reflected back to the eye means less “Brilliance”. In the “Ideal Cut” example, most of the light entering through the table is reflected back towards the observer from the pavilion facets.
Keep in mind that the variance in proportions between an “Ideal Cut” (ideal make) and a “Fair, Poor, Shallow or Deep Cut” may be difficult to discern to the novice observer, although there will be a lack of brilliance, scintillation, and fire. Cut quality is divided into several grades listed below.
Ideal Cut
Premium Cut
Very Good / Fine Cut
Good Cut
Fair Cut
Poor Cut
Cut Proportions
In the past, the “Cut” quality of the “4 Cs” was the most difficult part for a consumer to understand when selecting a good diamond because a GIA or AGS certificate did not show the important measurements influencing cut (i.e. pavilion and crown angle) and did not provide a subjective ranking of how good the cut was. Only a trained eye could see the quality of a good cut. All of that has changed with the AGS Cut Grading system and GIA’s new “Cut Grading System”.
The proportion and symmetry of the cuts as well as the quality of the polish are factors in determining the overall quality of the cut. A poorly cut diamond with facets cut just a few degrees from the optimal ratio will result in a stone that lacks gemmy quality because the “brilliance” and “fire” of a diamond largely depends on the angle of the facets in relation to each other. An Ideal Cut or Premium Cut “Round Brilliant” diamond has the following basic proportions according to the AGS:
Table Size: 53% to 60% of the diameter
Depth: 58% to 63% of diameter
Crown Angle: 34 to 35 degrees
Girdle Thickness: medium to slightly thick
Facets: 58 (57 if the culet is excluded)
Polish & Symmetry: very good to excellent
The girdle on a Modern Round Brilliant can have 32, 64, 80, or 96 facets which are not counted in the total number of facets (58). The crown will have 33 facets, and the pavillion will have 25 facets. Other variations of the “Modern Round Brilliant” include the “Ideal Brilliant” which was invented by Johnson and Roesch in 1929, the “Parker Brilliant” invented in 1951, and the “Eulitz Brilliant” invented in 1972.
Poor Diamond Faceting and Symmetry
Due to the mathmatics involved in light refraction, a Round Brilliant cut that does not have the proper proportions and symmetry (off-make) will have noticeably less brilliance. Common cutting problems can occur during the faceting process, when one incorrect facet angle can throw off the symmetry of the entire stone. This can also result in the undesirable creation of extra facets beyond the required 58. The chart below shows several common problems to look for.
Fancy Diamond Cuts
The shape of the cut is a matter of personal taste and preference. However, the quality of the cutter’s execution of that shape is of primary importance. The shape of the diamond cut is heavily dependent upon the original shape of the rough stone. The round brilliant cut is preferred when the crystal is an octahedron, as two stones could be cut from one crystal. Asymmetrical raw crystals such as macles are usually cut in a “Fancy” style.
Emerald
Heart
Marquise
Oval
Pear
Princess
Radiant
Round
Trillion
CARAT
Balancing Cut and Weight
A diamond or gemstone’s “Carat” designation is a measurement of both the size and weight of the stone. One “Carat” is a unit of mass that is equal to 0.2 grams (200 milligrams or 3.086 grains) or 0.007 ounce. A carat can also be divided into “points” with one carat being equal to 100 points, and with each point being 2 milligrams in weight. Therefor, a 1/2 carat diamond would be 50 points, a 3/4 carat diamond is 75 points, and a 2 carat diamond is 200 points.
When a single piece of jewelry has multiple stones, the total mass of all diamonds or gemstones is referred to as “Total Carat Weight” or “T.C.W.”
The word “Carat” is derived from the Greek word keration, or “seed of the carob”. In ancient times, carob seeds were used to counterbalance scales, and as a benchmark weight due to their predictably uniform weight.
Occasionally, a stone cutter will need to make compromises by accepting imperfect proportions and/or symmetry in order to avoid noticeable inclusions, or to preserve the carat rating of the rough stone. Since the per-carat price of diamond is much higher when the stone is over one carat, many one carat diamonds are the result of compromising cut quality to increase carat weight. It is for this reason that an even 1.00 carat diamond may be a poorly cut stone.
Some jewelry experts advise consumers to purchase a .99 carat diamond for its better price, or to buy a 1.10 carat diamond for its better cut. See the chart above for a millimeter to carat size comparison.
FTC Guidelines on Diamond Weight
According to the Federal Trade Commission’s (FTC’s) Jewelry Guides on Decimal Representations, “If the diamond’s weight is described in decimal parts of a carat, the figure should be accurate to the last decimal place.” If the carat weight is shown as “.20 carat” could represent a diamond that weighs between .195 and .204 carat.
If the carat weight is shown as one decimal place, it must be accurate to the second decimal place. A diamond that has a specified carat weight of .5 carats must have an actual weight of between .495 carats and .504 carats.
Price Per Carat (2005) – Grade: F Colorless – VS1
Carat Size Cost Per Carat (USD) Total Cost (USD)
0.5 carat 3,600 1,800
1.0 carat 6,600 6,600
1.5 carat 8,500 12,750
2.0 carat 15,000 30,000
Rapaport Diamond Report
Diamond prices do not increase in a steady line, as each jump past a even carat weight can mean a significant jump in pricing. The “Rapaport Diamond Report” is a weekly diamond price list based on cut, clarity and weight, that is published by the Rapaport Group of New York.
Price according to 2005 Survey By Diamond bodies
CLARITY
All of the grades of diamond clarity shown in the table below, reflect the appearance of inclusions within the stone when viewed from above at 10x magnification Higher magnifications and viewing from other angles are also used during the grading process. In “colorless” diamonds, darker inclusions will tend to create the most significant drop in clarity grade. In fancy-colored diamonds, light or pale inclusions may show greater relief, making them more apparent, causing a greater drop in grade.
Diamond Clarity Designations
FL – “Flawless” no inclusions at 10 x magnification
IF – “Internally Flawless” no inclusions at 10 x mag. – small blemishes
VVS-1 – “Very Very Small” inclusions hard to see at 10 x magnification
VVS-2 – “Very Very Small” inclusions. VVS1 better than VVS2
VS-1 – “Very Small” inclusions visible at 10 x mag. – not naked eye
VS-2 – “Very Small” inclusions VS1 is better grade than VS2
SI-1 – “Small” or “Slight” Inclusions or “Imperfections” may be “eye clean”
SI-2 – “Small” or “Slight” Inclusions or “Imperfections” visible to naked eye
SI-3 – Inclusions large and obvious, little or no brilliance
I1 to I3 – Imperfect, with large Inclusions, fractures, and flaws
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GIA Clarity Grading System
The chart below explains the GIA grading system for inclusions and imperfections. Considerations in grading the clarity of a diamond include the type of stone, point size and the location of inclusions. Inclusions that are near to, or break the surface, may weaken the diamond structurally, therefore reducing its value significantly. On the other hand, it may be possible to hide certain inclusions behind the setting of the diamond (depending on where the inclusion is located), thus minimizing any negative impact of the inclusion.
Diamond Clarity Grade Inflation
A fairly common practice in the jewelry trade is grade-inflation or “grade bumping.” According to the Federal Trade Commission’s (FTC’s) Jewelry Guides, a diamond must be within one clarity grade of its advertised amount at the time of sale. If a jeweler sells a diamond that has an actual grade of VS-1, he or she could legally sell it as a VVS-2.
Internal Diamond Inclusions
Carbon – Tiny black spots caused by undigested carbon inclusions (natts).
Clouds – Cloudy grouping of tiny pinpoints that may not resolve at 10X Magnification.
Feathers – Cleavage planes or internal fractures that have the appearance of feathers.
Grain Center – Concentrated area of crystal growth that appear light or dark.
Internal Graining – Irregular crystal growth causing internal distortions, waviness, haze.
Needles – Rutile-like needle inclusions.
Pinpoints – Minute crystals within the diamond that appear white.
Pique – Garnet or other Included gem stones
Twinning Wisps – Inclusions resulting from crystal twining during growth.
External Diamond Inclusions
Bearded Girdles – Fine cracks, chips, fringing, or feathers along the outer edge of girdle.
Bruising – A percussion mark caused by impact.
Cavities – An indentation resulting from a feather or damage during polishing.
Chips – Damage usually occurring on the sharp edge of a facet.
Knots – An inclusion that penetrates the surface, appearing as a raised area.
Indented Naturals – A natural indentation that was not removed by polishing.
Filled Fractures – Fractures that have been artificially filled.
Pits – Dislodged pinpoint inclusions at the surface.
Surface Graining – Visible surface lines caused by irregular crystallization during formation.
COLOR
Most all natural diamonds contain small quantities of nitrogen atoms that displacing the carbon atoms within the crystal’s lattice structure. These nitrogen impurities are evenly dispersed throughout the stone, absorbing some of the blue spectrum, thereby making the diamond appear yellow. The higher the amount of nitrogen atoms, the yellower the stone will appear.
In determining the color rating of a diamond, the Gemological Institute of America uses a scale of “D” to “Z” in which “D” is totally colorless and “Z” is yellow.
Diamond Color Designations
- D, E, F – colorless (white)
- G, H, I, J – near colorless
- K, L, M – faint yellow or brown
- N, O, P, Q, R – very light yellow or brown
- S, T, U, V, W, X, Y, Z – light yellow or brown
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Royal Ruby: History& Origin
One of the most sought after gemstones in the world are rubies. Ruby is made from corundum. It should be noted that the corundum stones creates two separate, the first is the ruby, sapphire is the second. Sapphires come in a variety of beautiful colors, but only red corundum is considered as a ruby. Since natural occurring rubies are very rare and very rare in larger sizes over 3 carats, they can ask higher prices than diamonds.
Ruby is one of the most beautiful gems created by nature. It comes in either pink or deep red, rich red. High-quality rubies have a wonderful color to them and are called “silk” ruby.
Ruby is perhaps one of the oldest gemstones known to man. They have been revered since the beginning of time and possession of their fine qualities. Corundum, which are made from ruby is created from aluminum, iron, small pieces of chrome and titanium. It is usually written scientifically Al2O3. It should be noted that corundum is one of the hardest substances known to man and the second in hardness only to diamonds.
Rubies were worn by kings and aristocrats since time immemorial. Ruby comes from the Latin word ruber meaning red. It has been said to ward off disease and make it invulnerable to defeat. In antiquity, it was said that those who have wealth will never have their jewels or property derived therefrom. Today, rubies are used for the highest quality jewelry can be extremely beautiful rings, charms, earrings and bracelets.
Several Uses Of Ruby Or What are Rubies Used For?
Ruby is one of the most precious stones in the world. Ruby is a gemstone that comes from the corundum. Corundum is responsible for two popular stones, sapphires and rubies. Sapphires are known to include a wide range of colors from white to blue, but only red corundum stones are allowed the privilege to be called Ruby.
Rubies are mainly used for ornamental jewelry. Ruby has wonderful qualities as an incredibly deep rich red color. However, it does come in red and pink. Ruby, which are made from corundum are extremely difficult and the rate of 9 on scales of the Moh’s hardness. They are the secondary substance, called more difficult to man, other than diamond. Rubies are aluminum, iron and can include chromium and titanium.
Rubies are usually the perfect stone for jewelry making high quality wonderful. They are extremely durable, scratch-resistant color that is typically created by chromium is very stable and does not fade and the crystal structure is extremely beautiful, brilliant and transparent to translucent, making it ideal for rings, bracelets , earrings and charms.
Although Ruby is only used for jewelry, corundum has many uses as it is extremely difficult and most often a common mineral. It is primarily as an abrasive and as you may know Emery, Emery as in this file fingernails and toenails. In addition to being an exceptionally good abrasive, corundum is used for many other types of industrial applications.
History Behind Rubies How and where are formed and found?
Rubies are formed from the mineral corundum. Corundum is a mineral popular, known for two precious stones. Sapphires first being this incredibly attractive stone in a variety of colors including blue, yellow, orange, green, etc. The second type of gem corundum is a ruby. Ruby has the unique privilege of not coming in a shade of red-single magnificent.
Corundum is made of aluminum and oxygen. It is scientifically written as Al2O3. It should be noted that many trace elements include iron, chromium and titanium. Corundum is a mineral very hard and the scores of 9 on the scale of the Moh’s hardness. It is the second hardest substance on earth Diamant. The corundum is usually the case of silica sand are not. Although many come from silica stones, including quartz, corundum is generally extracted away from these types of rocks.
Ruby is far less frequent and, of course, not usually occur often. Rubies are usually the result of chromium and titanium inclusions in corundum. These are truly exquisite stones and ruby right to a large size may be worth more than even a diamond.
The corundum is usually in the same alluvial diamonds and leaching. Corundum can also be found in pegmatites which are silica poor. Sapphire is the most common types of corundum. They can be found in many regions in the world of India, East Africa, South America, the Hindu Kush and there are even some deposits in the United States.
The different colors, shapes and sizes that Rubies come in?
One of the most impressive stone is the ruby in the world. The Ruby is corundum. There are two large stones from the mineral, and they include sapphire and ruby. It is not known until the early 1800s that both Ruby and Sapphire are both the same mineral.
Ruby has the distinction of honored to be the gemstone red corundum. Ruby is available in two main colors red pink and ruby red. Ruby red may include the finest deep and intense with every precious stone and because of this trait, Ruby was possessed by many kings and queens since the beginning of civilization.
It should be noted that the ruby is a great stone for ornamental jewelry and they are extremely difficult because of the mineral corundum, which Ruby is made that the diamond is harder than ruby. Ruby can be cut into many shapes and can be adjusted in virtually any type of jewelry such as rings, bracelets, earrings, charms and pins. rings, however, for top quality ruby, they are usually set in fine gold or platinum.
A beautiful ruby red usually comes from the size of less than 3 carats. Although some stones are bigger, they are generally not as good color. Large Ruby stones are of excellent quality, can easily compete with diamonds in the price.
Synthetic rubies are also available and they are an option for those looking for a stone more affordable. Usually synthetic rubies look very convincing and also to come in red, they can come in other types of gemstones such as sapphire corundum.
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Introduction To Sapphire
The name Sapphire(Greek-blue)used to be applied to various stones.In antiquity and as late as the Middle Ages,
the name sapphire was understood to meanwhat is today described as lapis lazuli.Around 1800 it was recognized
that sapphire and ruby are gem varities of corundum.At First only the blue variety was called sapphire,and corundums
of other colors(with the exception of red) were given special misleading names,such as”Oriental Peridot” for the green
variety and “oriental topaz” for the yellow type.
There is no definate demarcation between eruby and sapphire.Light red,pink,or violet corundums are usually called sapphire,as in the way they have indivisual values in comparision with other colors
Treatment
through heat treatment at tempratures of about 3100-3300 degrees F(1700-1800 Degrees C),Some Cloudy sapphires,Nondistinct in color
,can change to a Bright blue permanent color.hardness is same as Ruby and also differs clearl in diffrent directions(An important factor
in cutting.THERE IS NO FLUORESCENCE CHARECTERSTICS FOR ALL SAPPHIRES
DEPOSITES:-
Today economically important deposites are in australia,myanmar,Sri Lanka,And Thaild
there are also two sapphire deposites in thailand:One in the region of chantaburi southeast of bangkok,the other one near
kanchanaburi,northwest of bangkok.The most Desired Sapphire to come from KASHMIR(india),where
the deposites were situated at a higher of 16,500 ft(5000m) in the zaskar mountains
There are also significant Sapphire Deposite in Brazil,Cambodia,China,Kenya,Madagascar,Malawi,Nigeria,Pakistan,Rwanda,Tanzania,Vietnam and
Zimbabwe,Isolate star sapphire have been found in Finland
Famous Sapphire:-
The American Museum of Natural History(New York) owns the “STAR OF INDIA”,Perhaps the largest cut star Sapphire
(536ct);also the”MIDNIGHT STAR“a black Sapphire(116ct).
Smithsonuan institution in Washingston,D.c. owns “STAR OF ASIA” SAPPHIRE weigh 330ct
Be Aware Or Possibility of Confusion
Sapphire Can Be Confused with various stones.The Blue Sapphire looks similer to Benitoite,Indicolite,
iolite,kyanite,spinal,tanzanite,topaz,and Zircon,As Well As Blue Glass
Some immitations are made from Doublets-blue cobalt glass with a crown of Garnet or a crown of gree Sapphire and a pavilion of synthetic
blue Sapphire.Lately Doublets have appeared using two small natural sapphires.
Synthetic Sapphire was Produced with Properties identical to natural stone at the beginning of this century.
Since 1947 Synthetic star Sapphire of gem Quality have been sold.
Properties of Sapphire:-
Color:-Blue in Various Tones,Colorless,Pink,Orange,Yellow,Green,Purple,Black
Color Of Streak:White
Mohs’Hardness:9
Crystal system:- (Trigonal),Double Pointy,Barrel-Shaped,Hexagonal Pyramids,Tabloid-Shaped
Transpracy:Trnsparacy to Opaque
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King Of All Gems|Emerald
Emerald Known since ancient times and a favorite of Cleopatra,
emeralds are still among the most popular and beautiful stones in the world. It
is both the birthstone for May and the official gemstone of the 20th anniversary. The most beautiful emeralds today are mined in Colombia and other
parts of South America &it also has its Primary Mines in USA, Brazil, Madagascar, Africa, India and Australia.
The emerald is actually a green beryl that gets its color
from impurities in the stone. This has led to some controversy on exactly what
constitutes a ‘true’ emerald with purists insisting that only stones with
chromium in them are true emeralds.
Although emeralds rank high on the Mohs scale for hardness,
they are relatively fragile stones that are subject to cracking and breaking -
which is one of the reasons that jewelers developed the emerald cut. The long,
shallow shape presents far fewer fracture points and shows the emerald’s fire
to its best advantage.
How to Buy Emerald?
What all You need to Keep in Mind Before buying Emerald
Look for deep, medium tone green when you’re looking for an
emerald. Emeralds vary in color from pale yellow-green to nearly black. The
most valuable are pure, transparent grass green – the color that gives Ireland
its nickname of the Emerald Isles.
Few emeralds are free of inclusions or faults, and emerald
pricing accounts for that fact. In addition, nearly all emeralds sold as
gemstones have been oil-finished or filled with resin to give the stone a
smooth surface. If you’re buying an emerald, assume that it has been treated in
some way unless otherwise told. Untreated emeralds of high quality will fetch a
premium price.
Emerald care
Because emeralds are seldom found without fissures and
surface cracks, it’s common for them to have been oiled, waxed or filled with
resin. Because of the likelihood of those treatments, special care is called
for when cleaning and handling emeralds.
Everyday cautions
Avoid situations where your emerald could knock against
things and be damaged. In addition, remove your emerald rings when doing dishes
or immersing your hands in water as soapy solutions and hot water can damage
the finish on the stone. Finally, avoid sudden temperature changes which could
cause color change and cracking in your emerald.
Cleaning your emerald jewelry
Use warm water with a very mild detergent and a soft brush
to clean your emerald jewelry. Between washing, clean emerald jewelry with a
soft, dry cloth. Do not use an ultrasonic cleaner or steam cleaner on emerald
jewelry, and avoid harsh chemicals. Every 2-5 years, have an experienced
jeweler re-oil your emerald to keep it looking its best.
Storing your emerald jewelry
Store emeralds in velvet lined boxes with individual
compartments or inside cotton bags in a jewelry box. Avoid storing them in the
same compartments of bags as diamonds and sapphires to prevent scratches to the
emeralds. Also avoid extreme temperature changes and prolonged exposure to
bright light which can change the color of your emeralds.
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